here's the engine for a 24 4 winns...engine came in today...it's a '09 volvo 5.7gxi,multi port injected...nice !!! this is a repower,a repower is not replacing a short block with a remanufactured unit,and it's not replacing the long block either,a repower is replacing everything with new technology.the boat is a '00,it had a 5.7 tbi engine...

if you're contimplating a repower,trust me,this is the way to go...all new and under warranty...

here's a few progress pics on this job...

That sure looks pretty sitting on that pallet!

I see one of those battery switches that you loath so much.

Am I missing something? Why go with a raw water cooled motor on a repower? Is there just not enough room for the heat exchanger in this case or am I not seeing it in the pics?

you're not missing anything there big joe...it's a raw water cooled engine...fresh water cooling,in my opinion isn't really needed on these engines,similar metals.in the time i've been in this buisness,i've yet to see and engine problem related to the engine being raw water cooled.people often make the mistake of thinking the entire engine,including the manifolds are freshwater cooled,this is not the case,volvo engines,the manifolds are raw water cooled-these will need to be repalced in 4-5 season.there's really no advantage in gas engines.
one of the biggest things you can do to keep the engine rust free doesn't involve raw or fresh water cooling,it involves keeping the bilge dry,and giving the engine a little "hose down" of CRC or corrosion block spray-this will keep that engine looking good-remember the pictures of the vovlo engine i removed from this rig,the one i had listed for sale ? that engine was 10yrs old,had great compression and no rust,anywhere-raw water cooled engine too...remember this...

Everyone at the marina busts my chops about my obsessing about my clean dry bilge and keeping it that way. It was quite a task this spring getting a bilge pump past the oil dip stick fitton on the pan this spring to have one in the lowest part of the bilge.

I keep it that way mainly because if anything ever does leak you see it right away, as was the case with my fuel tank. I do spray her down with CRC periodically. Before a new coat I always wipe down the motor with a rag to clean it off first.

Early and late in the season I get a lot of condensation on the motor and fuel tank, I am sure the CRC bath helps greatly on the motor in keeping her in top shape.

I tried the corrosion block once, never again. The slight yellow color wasn't the issue, it is super tacky and if you lean on it while working on it you stick to it, lint from your shirt or rag is now stuck to the motor, and it seems to attract a lot of dust.

joe,what you used wasn't corrosion block spray,it was boeshield,not the same thing...corrosion block spray is a lite blue color and it's liquid,not wax...

It was the same blue/green can as the CRC can and is CRC brand, says Heavy Duty Corrosion Inhibitor on it. Only thing I use it for now is the motor mounts because it stays on really well unlike CRC.

wrong stuff joe...
when i get home,i'll show you a picture of the corrosion block...i use this and crc,nothing else...

When I had my Lancer repowered a few seasons ago I went with a MERC 260HP 5.7 MIE. Even though the Lancer has a Volvo I/O it does not use an I/O engine, it uses a stock bobtail.
I decided on this engine because its manifolds are FWC, not just the block and it had a 2bbl carb. Why not a FI or TBI engine you might ask. Just being a bit a dinosauer. I've gotten home on other boats of mine with malfunctioning carbs that I've taken apart and cleaned more than once. On a FI engine...it's "Call Capt Shawn!". I already had one episode with ethanol that had the engine been FI or TB would have been EXPENSIVE. All it cost me was a carb gasket.

For me, the other big advanage of a FWC engine is the operating temp. RWC engines run in the 130-140 degree range to prevent deposits. FWC engines run in the 160-180 range. This higher temerature give one two advantges: 1) Oil runs hotter and tends to "burn off" moisture and have a less tendancy to sludge out.
2) The higher operating temps give you better gas mileage.
When the GMC engineers designed the block and pistons and internal clearances, they designed for temps close to 190/200 degrees. As engine temps rise, clearances change. At 130-140 the engine is not running at the design point.

One other reason for choosing the MERC is that the setup in the Lancer (admittedly rare) allows the use of an engine with a starter in the "up" position, greatly prolonging starter life.

An lastly, the other reason I picked MERC is that I have a bug in my ear about VOLVO. Some years ago a friend had a boat built that had factory installed VOLVO gas engines. It never ran quite right. He complained many mnay times and had repeated problems. At one point he had a Volvo rep come and look at the engine/installation and the rep said.."looks OK to me". The engines finally failed less than two weeks after the warranty expired. When my friend tried to get the engines fixed under the warranty, he got turned down. He escallated it up to the VP level at Volvo and got a letter in return that Volvo would not fix the engines under the warranty as the engines "had been improperly installed"... This despite the fact that the engines were installed by a Volvo certified manufacturer and had been inspected by a Volvo tech rep.
While Volvo of Sweded may be a great company, if you have a new Volvo these days you are dealing with Volvo USA... an acorn that apparently has falled far from the tree, so to speak.

i take the approach of this...if it's an inboard set up,i use mercs.i like mercs,good guys wear black lol !!!i use strickly injected engines,because of their power delivery,smooth and crisp...fuel effiecincey,well,my sea craft gets in excess of 2nmpg,that's pretty good...
stern drive boats,they get what ever is in them,this boat had a older tbi volvo,it got a new mpi volvo...personally,i've had very few problems with both the merc engines and the volvo engines,i chose volvo diesels when i repowered my old bertram 31,these proved to be super reliable and fuel efficient too...

Which Volvo diesels did you put in the Bert ?

i used 43 series,these engines are supercharged and turbo charged...they're a little noisey,but they're great on fuel and so,knock on wood,no problems in 700+hrs

Sweet.. I've only heard good things about those.

bob,they run like :xxx:...temps above 50',they barley crank when starting...like i said,a little noisey,but absolutley great on fuel...

you gotta get out on a wreck trip with us...

May just do that... never fished a wreck.